Picture by David Billy Herman ©

INTRODUCTION

Many thanks to Ward Vercruysse and Wouter Courtens for their invaluable pre trip information. We also like to thank James Eaton, Richard Craik, Marc Thibault, Ruud Schenk, Jan Vermeulen, Nick Dymond, ...

VISITED SITES

Below is a list of the sites we birded. There was no all-in-one site guide. Hence, most information was gathered via trip reports on the Internet.

Cat Tien NP

This is one of the larger sized lowland forest in Southern Vietnam. We took a public bus from HCMC towards Dalat and got off in the small village of Tan Phun (ca 3,5 hrs). There is a signposted road to the left indicating "Cat Tien National Park". At the junction we were overwhelmed by motorbikes wanting to take us to the Park (ca 30 min). Just before entering the park there is a ferry which takes you across the river. All nights were spent in the comfortable cabins near the HQ where there is a restaurant as well. One can also opt to stay overnight near Crocodile Lake.

There is good accommodation and food right at the entrance. At the reception they can also help to arrange your way out (motor taxis, bus to Dalat, ...) but tend to charge a good part of overhead for their part...

Plenty of large trees are left, unfortunately a good part of them remained leafless since the war and its chemicals. Birding however is still great as it is the stronghold for some of the region's rare species. Most of the birding was done close to the HQ along the main road and the nearby forest trails (Lagerstroemia and Uncle Dong's).

The Bau Sau Trail leads to the Crocodile Lake and was birded on one morning. The start can be found about 12 KM from the HQ along the jeep track towards Dac Lua and is signposted. Another 4 to 5 KM further one can find the lake which is surrounded by grassy areas. It is possible to spend the niht in the basic accommodation but we didn't. To get there we arranged a vehicle to drop us off and pick us up again at the start of the trail.

A full day was spent near the bamboo covered hills in the Dac Lua area, about 16 KM from the HQ. Here we hoped to see the Orange-necked Partridge which we unfortunately only heard. There were no real trails and we just tried to enter the bamboo wherever possible. There is also a pool (almost dried out when we were there) which might hold some water birds. Again we were dropped off and picked up by a pre arranged vehicle.

One afternoon took us to the grasslands West of the HQ. A few KM (3-4) from the HQ there is an isolated house on the right with some fish ponds right behind it. An indistinct trail passing the pools on the left side eventually took us to a watch tower. Green Peafowl can be seen from here while it comes out the forest to feed on the surrounding meadows in the late afternoon.

The last morning we birded the area near the Heaven's Rapids. In the past Orange-necked Partridge has been seen here but we had no luck. About 1 KM from the HQ the road towards the rapids forks off to the right. The whole area was very birdy and produced several species not seen elsewhere in the park. The rapids are about 2 KM further along the track and are surrouded by some bamboo stands.

Highlights: Germain's Peacock-Pheasant (1 seen right at the junction of the Lagerstroemia and Uncle Dong Trail and 1 seen in the first part of the Bau Sau Trail), Siamese Fireback (several encounters, mainly along the jeep track and along the Bau Sau Trail), Green Peafowl (1 bird observed from the watch tower in the W grasslands when it came out in the late afternoon), Gray-faced Tit-Babbler (a few birds positively identified on the first day along the HQ trails and probably overlooked the next days), Bar-bellied Pitta (almost commonly seen along the Bau Sau Trail and singles along the Heaven's Rapids track and the HQ trails), Blue-rumped Pitta (a pair seen well about 20m along the trail opposite the Forest Floor Lodge), Blue-winged Pitta (1 single bird along the Bau Sau Trail), Great Slaty Woodpecker (up to 4 seen just past the Heaven's Rapids), Gray-headed Lapwing (a small group near the Dac Lua pond), Pompadour Green-Pigeon (often split as Ashy-headed Green-Pigeon, small numbers). Unfortunately Orange-necked Partridge was heard only in the Dac Lua area.

Deo Nui San Pass (Di Linh)

This pass is situated along the old road towards coastal city Phan Tiet about 20 KM coming from Di Linh. A few Km before and after the pass there is some good forest left. On both days we were dropped off and picked up by motor taxis (30 min) arranged in Di Linh. We spent the night in Di Linh, clearly not a touristic place but several hotels available.

Roadside birding was very hard on the first afternoon. The next morning we enjoyed some good birding along the trail which starts behind the tea stall on the left side of the road, in a right bend just past the KM 76 marker. A few hundred meters before the tea stall there was a broader logging track which looked promising but was not explored by us.

Highlights: Spot-breasted Laughingthrush (often split as Orange-breasted Laughingthrush, up to four seen and more heard, all in the first part of the trail), Green Cochoa (several heard all along the trail but only 1 seen), White-cheeked Laughingthrush (fairly common), Gray-headed Parrotbill (often split as Black-crowned Parrotbill, small numbers of birds in mixed feeding flocks), Yellow-vented Pigeon (5+ seen).

Ta Nung Valley (Dalat)

The forested slopes of this valley are probably the easiest place to see the crocias. It is about 8 KM from Dalat. If you take the road towards the old airport you will readily see some signposts to 'Ta Nung'. After passing the airport (which is hardly visible) there is an obvious Y junction where you should take the first road towards Ta Nung. Between the KM 5 and KM 6 marker you'll see the first jeep track to the left while It is signposted 'Di Nong Trai'. Walk this track down and pass some a gate and shack until you reach the valley after about 1 Km. The people hanging around did not bother us, although we noticed several snares and traps in the forest. We reached it easily by motortaxi from Dalat (15 min) and made arrangements to be picked up again later in the evening. Nights spent in one of the numerous hotels in Dalat.

On both our morning visits we invariably encountered a huge mixed feeding flock in the large trees in the open area just before the valley itself. There are several smaller trails which all can only be followed for a few hundred meters. Birding was good on all visits.

Highlights: Gray-crowned Crocias (4 birds seen in the huge morning feeding flock and another 2 in a flock inside the forest), Black-hooded Laughingthrush (a flock of up to 15 birds at the end of the trail which goes to the left), Yellow-breasted Magpie (at least 3 birds heard calling loudly and taped in right where the track hits the valley), White-cheeked Laughingthrush (fairly common), Gray-headed Parrotbill (often split as Black-crowned Parrotbill, 2 birds in a mixed feeding flock).

Ho Tuyen Lam (Dalat)

About 4 Km from Dalat one can find this artificial lake and its dam. Most of the vegetation exist of pines but there are some remnant patches of broadleaved forest left. A motortaxi dropped and picked us up (15-20 min). In the vicinity of the dam there are plenty of tourist boats which can take you to the far NE side of the lake (30 min). Nights spent in one of the numerous hotels in Dalat.

We tried to bird the 'original' site described in older trip reports but it proved to be very difficult. Our boatman dropped us at the point what was according to him the place to bird and it probably was. There were no trails left, only numerous tracks created by the lingering elephants. Dung was all over the place but we did not encounter any. We would not recommend going to this place as there are some better alternatives brought up in recent trip reports. The spot near the Tourist Camps Hendriks mentions in his reports probably will be more rewarding and definitely more accessible.

Highlights: Cutia (often split as Vietnamese Cutia, a group of 3 birds seen foraging in some pines near edge of the broadleaved forest), Yellow-billed Nuthatch (2 birds within a mixed feeding flock inside the forest), Vietnamese Greenfinch (several flocks in the pines along the lake), Burmese Shrike (several seen in the pines), Slender-billed Oriole (several seen and more heard near the lake border), White-cheeked Laughingthrush (small numbers), Gray-headed Parrotbill (often split as Black-crowned Parrotbill, 3 birds).

Mt Lang Bian (Dalat)

Some 10 Km out of Dalat one can find this mountain. We took motor taxis and were dropped at the entrance arc (20 min). Unfortunately they were not allowed to take us up so we had to hike the paved road uphill for 4-5 Km. It took us about 1 hour without birding to reach the turn-off towards the peak. Nights spent in one of the numerous hotels in Dalat.

We only birded the wide track which splits off to the right about 4-5 Km from the entrance. You find it in a sharp left bend of the paved road and is signposted 'peak'. It starts as a wide track through open forest but gradually becomes a footpath and enters some broadleaved forest once you passed an obvious descend. From here we continued the main path but also explored some of the side paths.

Highlights: Collared Laughingthrush (a group of more than 5 seen very well - but skulking - in the dense vegetation just past the lowest point after the obvious descend), Red Crossbill (one group seen in the pines along the main road up the mountain), Plain-backed Sparrow (2 birds in the agricultural fields just past the entrance) , White-cheeked Laughingthrush (small numbers), Gray-headed Parrotbill (often split as Black-crowned Parrotbill, at least 2 birds in a mixed flock).

Lo Xo Pass

This pass is situated on the Ho Chi Minh Road roughly halfway between HCMC and Hanoi. It has only recently been found as a 'partial' alternative for Mt Ngoc Linh where one can find both the recently described and endemic Golden-winged Laughingthrush and Black-crowned Barwing. For now, it seems to be the only road which reaches the higher altitudes in this region. About 40 Km to the South of Kham Duc (the closest larger village) there is this pass and a larger bridge that crosses a waterfall. We were dropped off here and picked up again by a pre-arranged motortaxi (50 min). We operated both days from our hotel in Kham Duc, as there doesn't seem to be one closer to the pass.

The late afternoon of our first day was spent birding the open area of grass, scrub and scattered trees just before the bridge. Besides the Barwings there was little more to see.

The next morning we explored the road to Dak Blo. This forks off to the right about 2 Km past the bridge. The first part leads through some cultivated areas but after 3 Km some better forest is found. We were there early morning and had seen our target bird the previous day, so we hoped to find some other good and unexpected birds as this site is still little known. But we did not.

Highlights: Black-crowned Barwing (2 birds immediately came in to tape in the scrub on the right side of the road about 100 m before the bridge) , Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler (only 1 bird seen along the Dak Blo road).

Bach Ma NP

The Bach Ma Range stretches almost from sea level to the other side of the country and the border with Lao. Most of the area is part of the National Park. It clearly suffered the warfare and most of the accessible areas were lacking primary habitat. We had a public bus from Da Nang to Hué (and further to Hanoi) and were dropped at the little village of Cau Hai (45 min). From here it was easy to get a motortaxi to the park entrance (10 min). We stayed in the cabins near the HQ as the accommodation near the summit had been closed due to restoration (?).

The first day we concentrated on the Pheasant Trail which is about 4-5 Km uphill (1 hr hiking). We wandered around the whole day without seeing both the argus and the partridge. They were calling too far off.

Next day we had pre-arranged motrotaxis to take us to the summit area. There we birded along the main road between the KM 16 marker and the top (KM 19). We also explored some of the trails of which the one behind the old tennis court proved to be the most rewarding.

Highlights: Short-tailed Scimitar-Babbler (1 taped in right at the junction of the paved steps right behind the old tennis court which leads to the stream with the lower trail), Slaty-legged Crake (1 seen in our spotlight during our pre dawn trek up to the Pheasant trail). Unfortunately Vietnam Partridge and Crested Argus were heard only, both along the Pheasant Trail.

Phong Nha NP

Vietnam's largest cave is now considered as a world heritage site and is surrounded by some limestone crags. It is situated around 55 Km NW of Dong Hoi and is best accessed through the village of Son Trach. From Dong Hoi take the Ho Chi Minh Road North. The turn-ff is signposted clearly along the main road. We took motor taxis all the way from Dong Hoi to the park entrance (1 hr). The way out we had a taxi as it was raining (40 min). There are hotels near the park entrance but we spent the night in Dong Hoi in order to start traveling early the next morning.

On our first and only afternoon we took a boat and had us dropped - like all other tourists - at the entrance fo the cave (20 min). From the docking spot we followed the paved steps up to the cave. Just above the only junction about two 2/3 along the steps there is a vendor's stall. Right behind it an inconspicuous footpath goes off to the right. Some 50ms further we immediately had a flock of the babblers.

Highlights: Sooty Babbler (a group of 4 birds seen hopping on the limestone rocks 50 ms along the trail behind the stall), Sulphur-breasted Leaf-Warbler (recently described as Limestone Leaf-Warbler, 1 bird seen near the entrance of the cave).

Cuc Phuong NP

On our trip this was the park with the most extensive intact forest left. It mainly consist of primary lowland forest, some degraded and secondary forest and several limestone crags. We took a taxi in Ninh Binh to get to the park as it was getting late already (1,5 hrs). There must be (tourist) busses as well but they might be scarce. To get out we were lucky to have a direct bus to Hanoi, unfortunately it departed at 9 so we had to limit our birding activities. We spent all but the last night at the Bong Substation accommodation (40 min by motortaxi); the last night at the HQ accommodation.

By far the most time was spent in the Bong Substation area and mainly along the Loop Trail. It was hard working but eventually rewarding. The better areas proved to be on the first part in the clockwise direction. Most of the (sometimes) numerous and noisy tourists start walking from the other side up till the big tree and back. Only few make the whole tour. The Grid trails were very calm on both our afternoon visits. One afternoon we tried the Valley Trail without success.

A few hours birding were had in the area near the HQ on the last morning and the last hours of the previous day. Species differ with those near the Bong Substation but no real goodies were seen.
Highlights: Red-collared Woodpecker (1 in a mixed flock of larger birds along the Loop Trail), Eared Pitta (1 taped in and seen off the Loop Trail and at least 2 others more heard), Bar-bellied Pitta ( 2 heard along the Loop Trail, 4 along the main road), Blue-rumped Pitta (2 singles seen and 2 more heard, all along the Loop Trail), Pied Falconet (2 on ridge along the Loop Trail, 1 perched in dead tree along the Main Road (ca 1km from Bong SS), White-bellied Pigeon (only 1 seen near the lake just past the HQ), Mountain Scops-Owl (daily heard near Bong SS, 1 fairly easily taped in and seen), Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl (1 bird taped in near Bong SS).

Tam Dao NP

About 80 Km NW of Hanoi this hill station attracts many Hanoi people in weekends and holidays. Hence it is recommended to avoid these days, although most of them don't make it as far as the birding spots. We took a bus from Hanoi to Vinh Yen (1,5 hrs) and continued by taxi (40 min) as there seems to be no public transport all the way up.

Although several recent trip reports state that the Water Tank Trail has degraded as a birding spot (it probably has as the road is broadened and the vegetation has been cleared), we still were able to find many of our sought after species. Just before you enter the village center take the road to the left which follows the slope. The road has been paved for the first 2-3 kilometers or so but from there on it was still worth birding. At the end of the jeep track we followed the trail which goes straight and passes through some bamboo forest. It looked promising but no real good birds were seen.

Right above the village of Tam Dao steps are leading up to a small pagoda and continue up to the obvious transmitter tower (if there's no fog). This site was birded twice but was not too rewarding.

Highlights: Gray Laughingthrush (regularly heard, several flocks seen both along the Transmitter and the Water Tank Trail), Rufous-headed Parrotbill (2 birds seen about halfway along the Water Tank Trail), Short-tailed Parrotbill (3 birds in a mixed flock about halfway the Water Tank Trail).

Ba Vi NP

This National Park is only 2 hours driving from Hanoi and it features some different avifauna than the otherwise nearby Tam Dao NP. We started early morning on a motortaxi from Hanoi to the entrance of Ba Vi NP (2 hrs), paid some entrance fee and continued all the way up to the summit (30 min).

At the summit there are 2 trails starting off close to the food and souvenir stalls. We only birded the left one and then walked down the main road almost to the building complex halfway up.

Highlights: Gray Laughingthrush (often split as Rufous-cheeked, 3 readily seen in the first part of the left trail, but no sign of them afterwards).

Sapa

In the very North near the border of China one finds this touristic hill station. The highest mountain of Vietnam, the Fanispan, is close by and is partially protected. A comfortable night train takes you from Hanoi to Lao Cai (8,5 hrs) where good numbers of touristic shuttle busses are eager to take you to Sapa (45 min). Night trains can be booked through local travel compagnies, hotels and guest houses. It is better to book them directly at the train station as they all seem to charge quite some overhead.

The entrance of the Ham Rong Gardens is near the central market of Sapa. After our arrival we spent the rest of the day in this area. An entrance fee has to be paid. Early morning might be a nice birding site, but it quickly gets too crowded. We mainly birded the higher areas of the gardens and walked beyond the gardens from the ostrich pen up the scrubby hills.

Further away near the Tram Ton Pass one can enter the Hoang Lien NP (also referred to as Ward's Valley in older reports). About 1 Km below the pass there is a newly built HQ. We were dropped and picked up here by motor taxis (40 min). On the adjacent the parking lot (?) take the right trail which is signposted "Golden Stream Love Waterfall". A few hundred meters along this trail you have to cross a stream and continue straight on an unpaved (at the time we were there!) footpath. This leads through a valley which has been cut dramatically but still holds some good birds.

To climb the Fansipan people often go for a 2-4 day trek. We started our day trip from the same entrance as the Hoang Lien NP (see previous paragraph). Unfortunately 1 day was all we had to explore the higher areas so rushed as high as possible and birded the way down. We struggled somewhat to find the right trail costing us some valuable time. On the parking lot there are 3 trailheads on the left: the first to some kind of pagoda, a second paved one (steps) is wrongly signposted "Fansipan", and at the far left end a third one which is the only correct one! We took the second, got somewhat lost and by accident ran into a group of porters who showed us the right trail. After a while we reached the first base camp where we took right and steep up until we reached aout 2700m altitude to get some other species. At around 2600m there is a good patch of "cloud forest" and stands of larger bamboo. This is just passed some a steep section (with ladders) on a ridge.

At around 8 Km along the road towards the Tram Ton pass a paved road forks off to the right and is referred to as the O Quy Ho road. We were dropped and picked up here by motor taxis (25 min). We birded the first 4 Km along this road as well as the dirt road which goes off to the right about 1200m from the main road. This area holds some extra species not found in lower or forested areas.

The main road towards the Tram Ton pass crosses a bridged waterfall where we had a quick stop to score Little Forktail and White-capped Redstart. There were readily seen from the steps leading up the waterfall.

Highlights: Long-tailed Wren-Babbler (often split as Pale-throated, 2 seen very well in the Hoang Lien trail), Red-winged Laughingthrush (at least 3 seen skulking at about 2700m along the Fansipan Trek), Spot-breasted Scimitar-Babbler (2 seen in the dense scrub above the Ham Rong Gardens), Broad-billed Warbler (up to 4 birds seen in total, all confined to bamboo along the Hoang Lien trail) , Vinous-breasted Parrotbill (a flock of minimum 30 birds seen in the scrub above the Ham Rong Gardens), Ashy-throated Parrotbill (at least 3 seen in a large flock together with the previous species), Spot-breasted Parrotbill (3 birds seen in a mixed flock above the Ham Rong Gardens and 2 more just past the first dirt road to the left along the O Quy Ho road), Golden Parrotbill (only 1 flock of at least 5 birds seen in bamboo in the lower stretches of the Fansipan Trek), Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler (1 seen very well in the larger bamboo stand at 2600m on the Fansipan trek), Silver Pheasant (1 male at the start of the Fansipan Trek).

Although we suffered some seicercus id problems throughout the trip, it was especially the case in Sapa. We are not sure about the identification of Bianchi's/Gray-crowned Warblers. If someone can help us out, please feel free to contact us...