INTRODUCTION

Many thanks to Joachim Teunen, Jurgen Dewolf, Stijn Dewin and Peter Collaerts for pre trip information. Dean Nicholson and Gerry Brett, Jan Van der Laan and Arjan Brenkman, Peter Ericsson and several others birders I met during the trip helped me out each on their own way.

PRACTICALITIES

Transport

We used public transport throughout. Regular busses were used most of the time, but we also regularly made use of minibuses and songtaews (jeepneys). To cover the last stretches we often used moto taxis and hitchhiking. The latter mainly to get around in national parks. On two occasions we needed a private car: (i) to bird the Laem Pak Bia and Pak Thale area we went together with a fellow birder with a private rented car and (ii) we hired a car and driver to get to the Den Ya Kat substation in Doi Chiang Dao.

Accommodation

As Thailand is a prime touristic destination there is a large choice in accommodation, ranging from cheap backpackers places to very luxurious resorts. At some sites the higher standard hotels are located further away from the birding site (e.g. Doi Inthanon). When staying within the national parks it is often possible to choose between bungalows and camping. The latter can be done using your own gear or by renting camping material. We felt this was very easy and good value as we didn't need to carry along our camping gear. Tents, Matrasses and sleeping bags were for rent at the Kaeng Krachan Ban Krang campsite and at the Khao Yai Pay Gluey Mai campsite.

Money

ATM's were easy to find throughout the country. We also exchanged some euros. We felt it was necessary to bargain most of the times as a tourist price is very often proposed. Ko Phi Phi was remarkably more expensive than the mainland.

Weather

We had very nice weather throughout. In the South it got tropical hot around midday and bird activity became very low. In the North we still had sunny and warm weather but several degrees lower and less humid. At night it even got somewhat chilly... We only had one very intense shower in KNC and another on the last evening in Bangkok...

Health and safety

We encountered no major health problems. Travelling independently caused no safety problems at all. We never experienced any kind of hassle. Unfortunately some baths and euros were stolen out of JL's wallet, probably on the very touristic Ko Phi Phi Island...

VISITED SITES

Below is a list of the sites I birded. The website of Thaibirding is full of very useful information, especially if you travel by public transport. The same goes for North Thailand Birding but it was still largely under construction. Other useful information was gathered through various trip reports on the internet.

Kaeng Krachan NP

This is the largest national park of Thailand. We reached it from Petchaburi where we took a minibus going up to the village of Ban Kaeng Krachan. From the HQ (12.884696, 99.632387) we tried to hitchhike, but we failed to do so as it was getting late. Eventually we chartered a songtaew to take us all the way up to the Ban Krang campsite (12.79901, 99.45443).

We mainly birded along the main road from the Ban Krang campsite towards Panoen Tong. In the first stretch there are 3 stream crossings. The forest here offers some very good birding until the roads starts winding up after a few km. At night I did some owling near the 1st stream crossing but it is said to be dangerous because of elephants. We did see loads of dung...

One day we went all the way up to the Panoen Tong campsite (12.82524, 99.36534). It is situated higher up and is home to some different species. Early morning we flagged down a van with regular tourists to get up there and came down with them as well. Lucky for us as it is about 35 km further on...

Highlights: Gray Peacock-Pheasant (1 bird seen along the road near stream 1st crossing; 1 calling bird seen well along the trail to the right, just before the 3rd stream crossing), White-fronted Scops-Owl (1 bird seen very well at night just after the 1st stream crossing 12.80267, 99.44235, another was heard here as well; 1 bird heard right at the Ban Krang campsite), Oriental Bay-Owl (1 bird heard near the 1st stream crossing; 1 bird taped in and seen very well near the Ban Krang campsite at 12.79792, 99.45598 and another heard there as well), Ferruginous Partridge (1 calling bird taped in and seen about 200m after the first stream crossing at 12.80369, 99.44165), Pin-tailed Parrotfinch (1 feeding bird in a bamboo patch about 1 km below the summit; a flock of 4-5 birds a few hundred meters lower), Bamboo Woodpecker (1 bird taped in in the bamboo patch 100m after the 1st stream crossing), Kalij Pheasant (several birds), Streak-throated Woodpecker (1 bird near the 1st stream crossing).

Pak Thale

At the moment of our visit the salt pans near Pak Thale were the easiest and most reliable place to find the rapidly declining and critically endangered Spoon-billed Sandpiper. Reaching the place by public transport is probably not very easy. We were lucky enough to meet Duncan, a Canadian birder, at Kaeng Krachaen and he was happy to take us along in rental car. Duncan made a prior arrangement with Gerry, an Irish birder living in Thailand. Otherwise we probably would have to charter a taxi for a full day to take us to this and the next site...

We birded the well-known saltpans and surroundings (13.145861, 100.062951).

Highlights: Spoon-billed Sandpiper (1 bird), Nordmann's Greenshank (only 1 bird recognized among some Great Knots, there might have been more but the group got flushed by the saltpan workers), Indian Nightjar (1 adult and 1 flightless chick flushed), Plain-backed Sparrow (several).

Laem Pak Bia

About 15km South of Pak Thale there is a sand spit (13.060541, 100.10489) near the fishing village of Leam Pak Bia. We had a prior arrangement with Mr Daeng, a local boatman who can bring you to the sand spit and even show you the White-faced Plover. His house can be found at 13.041517, 100.090859. This is a very enjoyable way of birding the area.

We also checked the surroundings of the so-called abandoned building (13.033873, 100.07589)

Highlights: Malaysian Plover (at least 6), Chinese Egret (2 singles). Unfortunately no White-faced Plovers were found...

Krabi

At walking distance from Krabi City one can easily explore the mangroves along a boardwalk. From the quay in Krabi follow the main road north for a bit more than 1 km. When it turns away (to the left) from the water there is a sign towards the boardwalk on the right (8.074462, 98.916993). At the time of our visit the boardwalk was well maintained and continues for about 1 km.

Highlights: Mangrove Pitta (3 birds easily seen and at least 1 more heard), Brown-winged Kingfisher (3 birds seen and regularly heard), Slaty-breasted Rail (1 bird taped in), Rufous-bellied Swallow (at least 3 birds were among the numerous Pacific Swallows at the Krabi pier).

Khao Nor Chuchi

This small forest reserve (?) is world's best known place to see Gurney's Pitta. Most people who are eager to see the pitta use the guiding services of Yothin. Contact him well on beforehand as he can become fully booked. I decided not to go with him as he was charging an incredible amount of money, even for European standards. At the time I asked, it didn't matter if I was alone of a group. It was not possible to go for half a day only. And as a surplus he heavily charged for a 4WD car to take us around, even though all pitta stake-outs are at walking distance. Spring 2012 was wetter than other years, pittas could be everywhere, so Yothin did not have a guaranteed stake-out at the time of my visit...

From Krabi we took a bus towards Trang and got off at Klong Thom. Here we took a mototaxi to reach the Morakot Resort (7.92056, 99.254539). This resort is conveniently situated at walking distance of the birding areas and there is a bird logbook with some recent sightings...

The first day I concentrated on the famous U-trail. From the Morakot Resort follow the road for about 500 m and continue straight on a dirt road where the paved road bends to the left (towards the main entrance). After 200m the trail starts at (7.92152, 99.264633). Birding was very hard over here and the trails were rather overgrown and not very obvious to follow. The next 2 days I entered through the main entrance and birded the B-trail which starts at (7.92491, 99.260741) and also explored the C and D-trail, starting at (7.929067, 99.263016).

Highlights: Gurney's Pitta (along the B trail, just before the junction with C and D, a male gave only limited views after some hard work as it was only very sporadically calling; the same bird was heard by a Dutch birder as I took him to the spot 7.928080, 99.262610), Large Wren-Babbler (1 taped in along the B trail at 7.926925,99.261596), Banded Pitta (1 along the first stretch of the B trail, just before the small bridge 7.92594, 99.261139), Green Broadbill (a few seen, more birds were very vocal).

Ko Phi Phi Island(s)

We somehow misjudged this site. It was a very crowded island with lots of young people looking for beach and party. Lots of tourist traps were around: little quality for overcharged prices (to Thai standards that is). We didn't really enjoy the snorkling trip neither...

To assure you see the Christmas Island Frigatebird one needs to charter a longtail boat and head for the smaller rocky island of Ko Bida Nok (7.654916, 98.765920) where huge numbers of frigatebirds seem to gather in the late afternoon. It was easy to find longtails to take you there (near the main pier) but all for a very overcharged price.

Highlights: Christmas Island Frigatebird (at least 2 different males and 2 females were identified, there probably were several more as the sky was filled with thousands of frigatebirds...), Pied Imperial-Pigeon (3).

Doi Inthanon NP

Thailand's highest mountain lies within this national park. From Chiang Mai we took a bus to Chom Thong. From there we hitchhiked up the mountain till we reached our accommodation: Mr Daeng's Bird Center, very close to the HQ (18.533455, 98.522365). There are also songtaews going up and down but not all day long. We didn't want to charter one ourself as they were overcharging.

On two occasions we went up early morning to bird the summit area. Just before you reach the substation at the top there is a boardwalk on the left (18.588267, 98.486196). This is a loop and goes through some very nice mossy forest. Make sure you be there very early as there can be loads of noisy tourists. About 300 m before the summit one there is a great spot to go early morning to scan the tops of the trees (18.586611, 98.484904). We did get our pigeons and thrushes there.

Both at KM 37.5 and KM 34.5 there are trails/jeep tracks to explore the forest. The 37.5 trail starts a about 50m above the 2nd checkpoint at (18.52601, 98.49904) to the right and continues for about 1km where it becomes unclear and overgrown. The 34.5 trail starts at (18.50822, 98.51067) and winds through some bamboo patches fro the first hundred meters. After a while there is a fork. Apparently the left track passes a fence and through open area before it goes back into some forest.

At walking distance we also explored the garden of Mr Daeng (18.533348, 98.522218) and the marshy area within the nearby camping. The first can be good for thrushes and shortwings while the latter is a well-known stake-out for the crake. Coming from Mr Daeng, take the paved road left just below the HQ and follow it until you reach a barrel. Enter the campground and follow the dirt track which winds along 2 ponds. The crake can be very showy in the marshy area just past the second pond (18.543423, 98.525346), especially in the evening.

At the lower altitudes the area near KM 13 has some excellent dry forest. Take the dirt road east at 18.524761, 98.651879, cross the bridge and follow the center paved road which goes up. We birded this track for a few kms. It soon gets very hot in here.

One late afternoon we went to the Parakeet roost site. To get there, drive out of the park and take left at the main junction. After a few hundred meters there is a road on the left (18.489278, 98.673553) which has already a parakeet signpost. Follow it all the way and take left again about here: 18.492647, 98.681292. We hiked up and found the place for the parakeets. There is a log book and the best time to seem them is clearly early morning or late evening.

All sites were visited by hitchhiking up and down. This turned out to be very easy and reliable. Early morning there were plenty of pickup trucks in both directions, even before dawn. The local people do not continue all the way up to the summit though.

Highlights: Black-tailed Crake (in the evening 3 came out at the well-known campsite site, see coordinates above), Dark-sided Thrush (only 1 bird seen on the summit boardwalk), Gray-sided Thrush (at least 3 seen in a fruiting tree about 300m below the summit), White-rumped Falcon (1 along the KM 13 trail at 18.538728, 98.641171), Black-headed Woodpecker (3 birds seen in total, all along the KM 13 trail), Ashy Wood-Pigeon (a lare flock and a several others seen, mainly from the panoramic view just below the summit), Mountain Bamboo-Partridge (2 seen and more heard in the higher parts), Green Cochoa (1 taped in and seen along the main road near KM 37.5), Asian Emerald Cuckoo (2 singles near KM 37.5), Blossom-headed Parakeet (3 birds only at the parakeet roost site, see coordinates above).

Doi Chiang Dao

This national park on the limestone massif has some very good forest left. We took a bus from Chiang Mai straight to Chiang Dao. From the village it was easy to get to our accommodation at Malee's Guesthouse (19.40325, 98.926111) as there is a good variety of homestays and lodges.

There are 2 temples in the area. The forest near the Wat Tham Pha Plong temple (19.402047, 98.918246) can be explored on several trails like the Nature Trail, Fence Trail and a gully trail. We birded the Nature Trail which ends at the other - more touristic - temple.

The best birding however is done around the Den Ya Kat substation (19.373867, 98.834780). To get there in time it is necessary to get permits in advance and have a personal vehicle. We hired a car and driver for a full day through Malee, but it's rather costly. Our driver was quite familiar with the birds and took us straight to the birding spots. We made stops en route and birded the summit trail - which starts right behind the substation - on foot.

Highlights: Hume's Pheasant (1 male gave superb views as it was displaying for 2 females just 50m before the DYK substation; 1 male flushed from the summit trail - 19.378677, 98.839991; 1 male seen crossing the a bit above the firebreak trail - 19.364751, 98.837295), Giant Nuthatch (3 seen together along the road towards DYK - 19.358059, 98.835532 ; 2 seen along the summit trail - 19.378677, 98.839991), Spot-winged Grosbeak (only 1 bird near DYK), Chestnut Bunting (3 birds near DYK), Pin-tailed Parrotfinch (1 bird in the bamboo along the steps towards the temple), Stripe-breasted Woodpecker (several around DYK), Gray-headed Parrotbill (1 bird in the bamboo at 19.366975, 98.836522).

Khao Yai NP

Located only a few hours driving from Bangkok this park can be very busy in weekends and holidays. The campings can turn into overcrowded festival campings with noisy people. Nevertheless birding can be very rewarding.

We came from Sukhothai and found it not too easy to find the best route to get there. From Sukhothai we catched a bus to Phitsanulok. Here we changed to a fast minivan heading for Sariburi, where we transferred to another bus to Pak Chong. From there we took a small bus to the park entrance and then continued hitchhiking to the Pay Gluay May campsite (14.431426, 101.400532). It may sound more complicated than it actually was.

All the birding was done within walking distance of the campsite. There are several good trails which go through decent forest. One morning we had the opportunity to join an Hungarian mammal fanatic to get to the wildlife observation tower (14.454273, 101.359585) surrounded by open grasslands which are good for mammals and some different bird species.

Highlights: Coral-billed Ground-Cuckoo (2 birds taped in and seen behind the PGM camping toilets - same gps coordinates as pitta; 1 taped in and seen behind the HQ; 2 single birds flushed from the trail from the HQ towards the wildlife tower), Eared Pitta (1 male seen together with the first CBGCC behind the PGM campsite toilets - 14.434408, 101.396922 ), Blue Pitta (3 birds seen along the trail from PGM campsite to the HQ), Siamese Fireback (1 male).