ITINERARY

Note: Not all members of our group were birders so we took some more time to travel and hang around at some places.

Download kml file with all gps coordinates

PRACTICALITIES

Transport

Most of the time we used public transport to get around. It was often very easy and fairly cheap. Most cities have well organized bus terminals with a variety of companies offering more costly luxury busses to very basic 'trucks' (chivas). Taxis were also frequently used. They were fairly cheap as well, except in more touristic areas.

On a few occasions we hired a 4WD as it was difficult to cover the distance by bus and would have cost us far more time.

• from Santa Marta to the El Dorado Lodge;

• between Colibri del Sol and Las Tangaras.

Both in El Dorado and Las Tangaras we had ourselves dropped at the birding sites by 4WD. In contrary to public transport all 4WD vehicles arranged by ProAves were very expensive and not included in the lodge fares, which we found a pity for young/independent travellers.

HM and JL took a national flight from Bogota to Santa Marta to save time. There are plenty of comfortable night busses available too.

Accommodation

Tourism in Colombia is booming. There seem to pop up more and more resorts, hotels and hostels. In larger cities good options for economically prized accommodation are available. In most ProAves reserves it is advised to stay in their lodges as these are the most conveniently located. Unfortunately they are rather expensive, with no cheaper rooms/dorms available.

Money

ATM's were easy to find throughout the country. We also exchanged some Euros. Only in the very touristic regions it was necessary to bargain, and mostly only for typical souvenirs etc.

Weather

The North was pleasantly warm and dry. We were rather late in the season so we regularly encountered some showers, clouds and mist in the Andes part. Higher up the mountains (e.g. Colibri del Sol) it could be pretty cold at night.

Health and safety

We encountered no health problems. Travelling independently caused no safety problems at all. We never experienced any kind of hassle. Colombian people are very friendly and helpful!

VISITED SITES

Below is a list of the sites we birded. We used a preliminary version of the site guide Bird watching in Colombia by Beckers & Florez; it contains some useful information on the birding sites, accommodation and directions (incl. public transport). To gather additional information www.cloudbirders.com was consulted for bird trip reports.

Lago de Siscunsi

This lake is situated near the well-known Lago de Toto. To get there we followed the descriptions in Beckers' site guide and took an realy morning bus in Sogamoso and got off at the tienda mentioned. Here we arranged transport to drive us to the lake and pick us up. We were dropped off about 1 km before the paramo in little interesting habitat. Insist to be dropped off at the start of the paramo. From here it's an easy walk to the lake. Birding the paramo around the lake yielded amongst others Noble Snipe, Bearded Helmetcrest and the paramo subspecies of Apolinar's Wren.

Highlights: Noble Snipe (one perched after being flushed), Bearded Helmetcrest, Apolinar's Wren (noisy family near outflow lake).

El Gallineral

This park, located conveniently near the center of San Gil, is known as an easy location for Niceforo's Wren, which can be seen right at the entrance. Unfortunately the park does not open until 8:30am and, apart from the wren, is not really worth a visit.

Highlights: Niceforo's Wren (1 at entrance gate).

Reinita Cielo Azul BR

This lodge is surrounded by plantations and pastures. The latter are partly planted to restore the former forest. To fully bird the area, one should bird the lodge grounds, the Lengueke Trail up and down towards the village. At the lodge feeders check especially for Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird and Indigo-capped Hummingbird. Turquoise Dacnis can be seen early morning feeding in the big trees behind the lodge.

To get to the reserve itself, follow the Lengueke trail uphill. Once the path follows the forest edge (app. 30' walk), look for a small gate in the fence at your left handside. Follow the small path through the forest which leads you to the Wood-quail feeder. Gorgeted Wood-Quail apparently visits the feeder all moments of the day, we had one in late afternoon. The main birding is done along the Lengueke trial itself. At the 5th bench, near the end of the reserve, you have a nice view over two valleys. Mountain Grackle can be found from this point and more uphill.

Other targets are located further down. We walked along the main road to the school and back up along the Lengueke trail. Apart from Niceforo's Wren and Turquoise Dacnis this area is also good for Yellow-browed Shrike-vireo. As we had seen it before in Venezuela, we did not try to hard for this species.

Recurve-billed Bushbird can be present in the area. Unfortunately, there was no more vocal nor visual observations since a few months.

Walking even further down towards the village of San Vicente de Chuchuri can yield Beautiful Woodpecker and other lowland species.

Highlights: Gorgeted Wood-Quail (quail feeder), Black Inca (most near quail feeder), Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird (1 at feeders lodge), Indigo-capped Hummingbird (feeders lodge), White-mantled Barbet (near 1st bench), Parker's Antbird (1st bench), Upper Magdalena Tapaculo (1 at 2nd bench), Yellow-throated Spadebill (1 at 2nd bench), Niceforo's Wren (2 along road, few hundred meters before lodge), Turquoise Dacnis (1 male at tree behind lodge eating room, 1 couple along road near Niceforo's Wren), Mountain Grackle (at 5th bench).

El Dorado BR

The isolated mountain ridge near Santa Marta holds a large number of endemic species and therefore is probably the premier birding site in Colombia. From Santa Marta we chartered a 4WD to take us up to the El Dorado lodge (11.100754, -74.072077). This is the most conveniently situated accommodation as most of the birding can be done by foot from here, but quite expensive as well. For people on low budget another option would be to stay a bit lower down at the Palo Alto Mountain Hostel(11.096864, -74.076267). Getting to the top for Santa Marta Parakeet will be a very long tenuous walk though.

Birding around the lodge is very rewarding with the hummingbird feeders, the compost heap which attracts the wood-quails (highest chances around 4 pm) and Santa Marta Screech Owl with a day-time roost during our stay.

The first morning we had us dropped off at the parakeet site (11.110429, -74.042452) which was not included in the fare. We wandered a few hundred meters and then walked down again while birding en route. For those on a tight budget, walking up is possible. Be sure to be at the spot before sunrise, otherwise you will miss Santa Marta Parakeet.

Lower down we tried our luck along the trail winding through lush forest at (11.091539, -74.073614). Look here especially for Santa Marta Foliage Gleaner. In our search for the hummingbirds we visited the private house of Palo Alto (Coppery Emerald, Blossomcrown) which has a flower-rich garden (gps see above) and later on the flowers and feeders at the 'tienda' (=shop) a bit lower down (Santa Marta Woodstar 11.096222, -74.077442).

On our way out towards Minca we had a brief stop at a second location for Santa Marta Woodstar (11.094328, -74.081539). Further down we searched for the potential split of Long-tailed Antbird, which occurs in the tangled vegetation at 11.099307, -74.081682.

Highlights: Black-backed Thornbill (1 male seen on 2 days at the lodge feeders), Santa Marta Antpitta (1 bird seen and a few more heard), Santa Marta Parakeet (10+ birds were seen eraly morning at their ususal site - see gps above), Santa Marta Screech-Owl (first taped in at night, later we saw one daytime next to the cabins), Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant (1 bird at 11.108071, -74.047723), Santa Marta Tapaculo (1 seen and more heard below the lodge), Brown-rumped Tapaculo (several seen and heard), Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner (2 birds seen along a trail at 11.090239, -74.073504), Black-cheeked Mountain-Tanager (10+ seen, mainly in the higher parts), White-tailed Starfrontlet (several seen), White-lored Warbler (daily seen), Santa Marta Warbler (4 seen, mainly at the higher parts), Santa Marta Woodstar (1 female seen at the 'tienda' and a male in the village lower down at 11.094335, -74.081554), Coppery Emerald (2 birds at the Palo Alto garden), Blossomcrown (2x 1 at the Palo Alto garden, 1 at the tienda), Black-fronted Wood-Quail (2 evenings a family visited the compost pile near the lodge), White-tipped Quetzal (several), Streak-capped Spinetail (2 seen and 1 heard), Rusty-headed Spinetail (5+ seen and more heard, mainly the higher parts), Yellow-crowned Redstart (several), Santa Marta Brush-Finch (fairly common), (Santa Marta) Long-tailed Antbird (1 bird seen in at the coordinate mentioned above), (Santa Marta) Emerald Toucanet (several), (Santa Marta) Groove-billed Toucanet (5+ seen lower down).

Minca area

We only visited the Minca Hotel for its hummingbird feeders () and made a walk towards Pozo Azul where Santa Marta Sabrewing has been reported (11.134021, -74.101142).

On the way down we made a quick road stop to scan for the macaws. It is about 4-5 km below Minca (11.161061, -74.139441).

Highlights: Military Macaw (a flock of at least 15 birds flew in to roost at around 5.45). We were not able to find the day roosting Black-and-white Owl(s) in the bamboo/trees along the driveway to hotel Finca Sanssouci.

Los Flamencos NP

In the very NE of the country the La Guajira area holds several species that are restricted to its dry desert/scrub. From Santa Marta we took an early morning bus towards Riohacha and got off at the turn-off to Camarones (11.400779, -73.067083).

As WO and HM birded similar habitat in Venezuela before, we were mainly after the piculet. We birded along the paved road for several kilometres. Once we saw the piculet we decided to walk back and return to Santa Marta in order to visit the next site and be back in time for our partners...

Highlights: Chestnut Piculet (first 1 seen at 11.413985, -73.066885 and later on 4 more next to the main road at 11.40614, -73.064602; the latter is next to a bridge), Bronzed Cowbird (5+, potential split according to some authors), Buffy Hummingbird (2), White-whiskered Spinetail (10+), Slender-billed Tyrannulet (2+), Glaucous Tanager (a few), Vermilion Cardinal (1).

Cienaga area

A few kilometres before Cienaga (coming from Santa Marta) there is a stake-out for Chestnut-winged Chachalaca. Late afternoon we took a taxi from Santa Marta and parked along a dirt road at (11.037571, -74.203752). As the road is fenced by a company we walked back to the main road and birded there. Another, maybe better, option is to take the next dirt road at (11.031495, -74.20468) as it will be much more quite.

Highlights: Chestnut-winged Chachalaca (at 11.041162, -74.204396).

Isla Salamanca NP

On the way from Santa Marta to Cartagena we got off the bus at the entrance of the park (11.006099, -74.683584). At the HQ we arranged a canoe trip through the mangroves in order to find Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird. Later on we also explored the mangrove boardwalk and surroundings of the HQ. To continue our travel it took a while to stop a bus as most do not stop.

Highlights: Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird (2 birds were seen well along the boardwalk and the HQ surroundings), Rufous-necked Wood-Rail (1 shy bird in the mangroves).

Isla del Rosario

We included this marine national park for snorkelling. A Cartagena based diving/snorkelling agent took care of the ferry, food, snorkelling gear and guide for the whole day. The snorkelling did not add much bird wise. Nevertheless it was pretty nice.

Highlights: none

La Romera

We were very limited in time, but tried our luck anyway for Yellow-headed manakin. The very efficient Metro took us to the Itagui station where we took a bus towards La Romera. We had to walk the last stretch which did cost valuable time. When calling a taxi, clearly explain you only want to get to the entrance gate and not further. As the last stretches of road well beyond the entrance gate are in bad condition, all taxis we stopped were reluctant to go there. We birded near the entrance gate (6.12681, -75.601038)

Highlights: Red-bellied Grackle (10+), Stiles's Tapaculo (1), Unfortunately we did not find any Yellow-headed Manakins...

Arrierito Antioqueno BR

This small reserve has been established after the discovery of the Chestnut-capped Piha. From the North Bus Terminal in Medellin we took an early morning bus towards the village of Anori. About 20km before this village one passes the ProAves lodge (clearly signed at 6.984778, -75.111895), where we stayed.

The best birding is done along the trail system, which starts just below the lodge along the main road. After a few hundred meters there is a lookout point from where you can observe the wood-quails coming to the feeder (6.983351, -75.11058). We were accompanied by the lodge caretaker who had good knowledge of birds and their whereabouts. We did not bird the whole loop but went up to the observation platform (6.979964, -75.119134) and birded our way down again, including some side-trails.

Continuing along the road to Anori will get you to a small swamp (6.992333, -75.115017), good for Blackish Rail. Search for Parker's Antbird and Lyre-tailed Nightjar along this road as well. Stygian Owl can be heard from the lodge grounds. Best chances to observe them well are to walk up the small trail in the clearing in front of the lodge. Sooty-headed wren and Colombian Chachalaca can easily be observed on the lodge grounds.

White-mantled barbet is most easy further back along the road towards Bucaramanga near the switch to a hydro-electrical plant. A few meters further along the entrance road at the entrance gate (6.981008, -75.107615) Black-headed Brush-Finch is present.

Highlights: Chestnut-capped Piha (3 birds seen), Chestnut Wood-Quail (3 birds seen at close distance at 6.978513, -75.114054 and several heard), Stygian Owl (1 bird taped in at the clearing in front of the lodge), White-mantled Barbet (3 seen next to the hydro-electrical plant), Colombian Chachalaca (daily present in the garden of the lodge), Parker's Antbird (a pair taped in the scrubby area at 6.990898, -75.111849), Black-and-gold Tanager (1 seen in a flock and 1 seen from the observation platform), Rufous-browed Tyrannulet (1 bird near the observation platform), Sooty-headed Wren (in the garden of the lodge), Multicolored Tanager (3 birds seen in mixed flocks at 6.982001, -75.113604 and also at the gps position for the next species), Scarlet-and-white Tanager (1 seen in a mixed flock at 6.981564, -75.114145), Tooth-billed Hummingbird (2 birds together with a Lancebill were a nice bonus at 6.982738, -75.113883).

Colibri del Sol BR

Dusky Starfrontlet is the flagship species of this ProAves reserve. We took an early morning bus from Medellin North Terminal and got off at El Chuscal after 4hr30 hours. The ranger/guide would meet us there. Unfortunately these directions were too vague as El Chuscal is the name for a settlement with few scattered farms. Furthermore our bus driver did not truly know the location. Hence we got off at the wrong settlement after which it took us quite some time to find out where we had to be and how to get to the correct spot. Anyway, the exact spot where to get off the bus is: (6.371515, -76.078048). The ranger and some horses were waiting further along the track at (6.39333, -76.077983). From there it is a 1hr pleasant and scenic horse ride up to the lodge (6.42668, -76.088047). The rangers phone number is 317 70 34 009.

Another 40' horse ride up the main birding is done near the paramo patches. On the way up there are some feeders with ever present Starfrontlets (6.436808, -76.088535). We walked back down following a different route with Undulated Antpitta (calling close by, alas no visual contact at 6.436139, -76.088979 and Chestnut-naped Antpitta at 6.433390, -76.088302.

The last morning we explored a trail on the other side of the stream. After a couple of hundred meters there is an antpitta feeder (6.427426, -76.089479) where Urrao Antpitta was ridiculously easy early morning. The trail seemed to end at a clearing.

Highlights: Dusky Starfrontlet (5+ were easily seen ath the feeders near the paramo), Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercer (5+ seen in the paramo), Urrao Antpitta (regularly heard, a few seen along the trails and a extremely tame pair at the antpitta feeder), Red-bellied Grackle (5+ seen), Paramillo Tapaculo (1 seen and 1 heard next to the steps up to the paramo 6.436955, -76.087578), Rusty-faced Parrot (2 seen near the paramo), Dusky Piha (several seen).

Munchique Wood-wren roadside stop

Travelling by public transport between Colibri del Sol and Las Tangaras requires lots of time. We estimated it would take at least one day. Traffic is scarce and very slow. We opted to get picked with a 4WD prearranged by ProAves and take a shortcut towards Las Tangaras, via Urrao and El Carmen. Most guided tours follow the same route and make a roadside stop to see Munchique Wood-Wren. Tanager Finch can be seen along this road, but is most easy in the morning. This can be included more easily by first visiting Las Tangaras and then Colibri Del Sol as done by most companies.

Highlights: Munchique Wood-Wren (6.005213, -76.164399).

Las Tangaras BR

This ProAves reserve is situated in the foothills of the Chocó. The nearest village with hotels is El Carmen, but we opted to stay in the lodge as it is much closer to the birding spots. Unfortunately it is still about 9km from where the real birding starts. Both days we had to charter an highly overcharged 4WD to drop us off and pick us up at the start of the trail (0hr30 drive). For the independent / low budget traveller it might be a cheaper option to base yourself in El Carmen and take a moto taxi up and down...

To bird, cross the bridge and about 6km from the main road there is a small brick building. The short trail at the back leads to some hummingbird feeders (5.820023, -76.177244).

Apparently birding along the main road can be rewarding, but we found most of the specialities along the trail. It starts right here: (5.806473, -76.181704). In the mornings a large mixed species flock gathers in the trees in the bend just right before the trail head. Several top species as Black Solitaire, Choco Vireo, Yellow-collared & Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia, ... were seen there.
The first few hundred meters of the trail leads through some pastures, look here for White-headed Wren. The trail then enters the forest, continues uphill, passes a waterfall and landslide until you reach pasture with a shelter at the junction on the top. The trail straight/left goes nowhere (we nearly got lost)! If you take RIGHT, it first leads through decent forest, continues through secondary forest and then hits the road again near the hummingbird feeders.

As we took the wrong trail at the top, we were short in time and could not bird the whole loop. Nevertheless most goodies were seen in between the trail start and the shelter. For Gold-ringed Tanager one has to follow the RIGHT trail and bird up to the right altitude (>1800m).

Highlights: Gold-ringed Tanager (1 bird in the highest part at 5.817192, -76.188126), Black-and-gold Tanager (daily several seen), Black Solitaire (3 seen and more heard along the trail), Choco Vireo (1 seen along the trail, 1 in the morning mixed species flock and another heard), Fulvous-dotted Treehunter (daily a few seen), Cloud-forest Pygmy-Owl (1 bird seen along the trail at 5.812837, -76.186369), White-headed Wren (a pair in the open area at the beginning of the trail at 5.807217, -76.182291), Yellow-collared Chlorophonia (3 birds in the morning mixed flock), Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia (2 and 1 bird seen in the morning mixed flock), Olive Finch (1 bird taped in along the trail at 5.812026, -76.185396), Crested Ant-Tanager (1 bird at the lodge grounds and 2 more in the reserve), Buffy Tuftedcheeck (daily a few seen), Beautiful Jay (1 came into view at 5.811986, -76.184881).

Loro Orejiamarillo BR

Above the cosy village of Jardin ProAves created a nature reserve to protect the Yellow-eared Parakeet. Jardin can be easily reached by bus from Medellin. One morning we hired a 4WD (+driver) to take us all the way up (xx hrs). Arriving early morning on the ridge (necessary!) we had to wait long for the fog to clear and get some flight views of the parakeet (5.538928, -75.804296). Once seen we walked and birded back down towards Jardin for a few kilometres. Some more distant flight views were obtained along the road.

Highlights: Yellow-eared Parakeet (about 20 birds seen in total, some at the top, some flying by lower down).

Bolombolo

En route from Jardin to Medellin we made a brief stop to bird the dry forest/scrub near Bolombolo. We asked 2 moto taxis to drop us after 3 kilometres along the road to Urrao. From there we road side birded and walked back down.

Highlights: Grayish Piculet (at 5.963526, -75.856666), Antioquia Wren (at 5.967376, -75.858831), Apical Flycatcher (common), Colombian Chachalaca (common).

Rio Claro NR

This private reserve is situated en route between Medellin and Bogota. We took a bus from Medellin's North Terminal and got off at the entrance gate (5.901205, -74.856876). Most drivers know where you have to be as it is a well-known touristic area. During weekends and holidays this park can be very crowded by Colombians who are out for camping, BBQ, swimming and some beers. Unfortunately we visited the place during the busiest weekend (Semana Santa)... Nevertheless birding was good.

Birding can be done along the entrance road, but we preferred the Mulata Creek trail that goes uphill next to the bridge (5.894733, -74.858716). We followed this not too far and saw most of the best birds there. If we had more time we would have liked to explore the higher areas as well...

One afternoon we birded the trail that leads to an oilbird cave. The start of the trail is a few km towards Bogota (5.92129, -74.836155). The cave itself is at 5.929619, -74.838596 and is surrounded by some nice forest. This visit was only little rewarding but often yields Blue Cotinga.

Highlights: Antioquia Bristle-Tyrant (2 singles on 2 days), Sooty Ant-Tanager (1 and 2 birds seen at the same place at 5.888895, -74.86186), Black-bellied Wren (1 bird seen on both days at 5.887313, -74.862852), White-mantled Barbet (several seen), Magdalena Antbird (a few seen, best along the side trail - 5.891608, -74.860017).

Parque La Florida

This park is conveniently situated within the city limits of Bogota. We took the Transmilenio towards 'Portal de la 80' and from there a microbus towards Las Penas. The entrance road towards the park is at 4.74044, -74.137306. After 1.3 km take left (4.734145, -74.147429). 500m further your reach the entrance. Apparently the nature park with the lagoon is closed these days but it can be opened upon request at the guard buildings.

We birded the short trail towards an observation hut where most of our target species were seen (4.725845, -74.150041). Later on we made a strawl through the public park on the other side. We did not feel unsecure but several people/guards warned us to be careful and not to expose our optical gear too much...

Highlights: Bogota Rail (1 seen and 3 more heard at the observation hut), Apolinar's Wren (1 seen in the marshy vegetation at the observation hut), Subtropical Doradito (1 seen in the reed bed at the observation hut), Noble Snipe (1 seen near the observation hut), Silvery-throated Spinetail (a pair seen in the public park - 4.729211, -74.146482), Rufous-browed Conebill (1 in the public park at 4.730873, -74.140772).